These guidelines are based on those collectively devised by all previous National Rallies, which in turn were developed from the original guidelines prepared by David and Dianne Howorth from the Morris Minor Car Club of Victoria.
Judges should have a reasonable knowledge of the Morris Minor, particularly if they are to judge the authenticity of the vehicle. There are a number of reference books on the Morris Minor that are recommended. These include Paul Skilleter's The World's Supreme Small Car, Morris Minor 1948 -1970", (Brookland Books); Workshop Manuals; and Owner's Manuals.
Don't be afraid to examine everything as the vehicle has been presented by the owner to be judged fairly and thoroughly and to provide him/her with a valid assessment of how well the vehicle satisfies the judging criteria for its particular class and thereby the standard of their vehicle.
It is recommended that Judges work as quickly but thoroughly as possible. This is the largest concourse ever tackled, and our Judges numbers are lower than expected despite repeated requests. We count on more volunteers coming forward at Rally Registration Day. All Judges work in pairs to assist in comparison, conferring and deliberation.
If there is a difference of opinion between judges please inform the Concourse Director or Assistant for independent evaluation.
All Judges should display "JUDGE" identification in ID badge provided by Concourse Director. Clipboards for your use are also provided.
The vehicle classes and specifications are these devised for previous rallies All details regarding classes were supplied to ail Rally Delegates. Some . vehicles of differing body type will be included within the same category for the purpose of equalising trophy allocation and distribution
If possible, have a quick look at the cars displayed to see the standard of entries. Usually there will be an entrant that is eye-catching and others that are not. Cleanliness stands out; the enthusiasts will have everything super clean. right down to the suspension. A good general indicator of what the car is worth in terms of Judging points is to examine 'he underbody and 'floors of the vehicle. Judges have found that a vehicle may have a shiny paint job but have mud in behind the wheels or rust ;in 'he chassis or floor On one occasion a vehicle was particularly well presented but, on closer inspection revealed that the, rear spring holder was rusted through and the brake lines were perished Some entrants make very little effort and this is reflected in the condition of their vehicle.
It could be argued that entrants and judges only compete in competitions for fun However we emphasise that safety is the most important factor in keeping our cars on the cad and ourselves and our families alive.
As stated in the Rally Entry Conditions,, vehicles must be in roadworthy condition. Any breach of this could lead to disqualification at the discretion of the Concourse Director. A brake pedal going to the floor, bald tyres, no hand brake, etc., would certainly lead to disqualification. Current registration labels are, of course, compulsory.
Attention To Detail and Engineering
Attention to details is a most important factor in judging, particularly in vehicles that have had a lot of money and time invested in them.
Engineering is another factor to consider in the Customised classes. This includes the amount of work done to make the vehicle safer (eg. the remounting of a different engine); and weld techniques (if cutting has been required to fit any of the modifications, and if this has been a wise move). Engineering requires more than simply improving on what was already on the original vehicle. It can be the complete rearranging of various parts and the refitting of something entirely different.
Vehicles Entered in the Wrong Class
If vehicles are entered in the wrong class, some loss of points will occur in the judging of authenticity. Some examples are:
1) A "Restored" vehicle fitted with mag. wheels. This would result in a loss of 10 points in the Non-Standard Wheels' item of authenticity.
2) A "Modified B" vehicle painted with metallic paint. This would result in a loss of the full 30 points in the Non-Standard Paintwork item of authenticity.
3) A "Maintained" vehicle fitted with Morris major brakes. This would result in a loss of 10 points 'in the Modifications item of authenticity.
The loss of points is compounded for every item which is not authentic up to a maximum of 250 points.
It has been known for an entry to obtain a perfect score and there are a few vehicles which may only lose 1O to 15 points. These vehicles can always be seen at National Rallies. However, the most important factor is peoples' budgets, their workmanship and their judgement of how their vehicles should appear. People customise or modify to their own tastes and needs. What may be in poor taste in the opinion of one person may well be the effect that the owner is trying to achieve.
Although a judge may only see engines. interiors, etc., judging can be fun. There will always be something to be learned that may help you with restoring or maintaining your own vehicle ant to become a better fudge in the future. Many people find that once they have judged, they want to do it again.
Thank you for being a judge in the 9th National Rally at Dubbo, and for the time, hard work, enthusiasm and interest you have shown. We hope you will enjoy the experience and will offer your services to the Morris Minor Car Clubs of Australia in future National Rallies.
All entrants should have placed their Judging Sheets on the drivers seat. Please ensure you replace them prior to moving on to the next car, for subsequent judges. When the last section has been judged. replace the Judging Sheets on the drivers seat for the Concourse Director/Assistant to collect for collation.
The following specific points relate to each of the four sections of the Judging Sheets.
Sometimes the necessity to replace a chassis or subframe rail, or a nasty front end accident can result in creases and dents around the engine floor. Check for stains from carburetor and radiator overflow outlets.
Is easily assessed. a vehicle can be extremely clean, very oily (showing no effort has been made in presentation) or somewhere in between. Every effort should have been made for a concourse and no excuses should be accepted. Clean is clean i.e.: SPOTLESS everywhere. Anything short of this is dirty.
a) Block, generator, starter oil filter, water pump, fan
b) Carby, manifolds, air cleaner
c) Head, rocker cover, sump
d) Distributor, spark plugs, ignition wiring
Check for firm positioning of the coil, starter, carburetor, exhaust, air filter, fan blades and power booster (if fitted). Examine all components for proper fit to ensure they do not foul other working parts. Spark plug leads should be of the correct length, of uniform colour and with proper connections. Check the paintwork on the engine. It should be of uniform colour and the right colour for the vehicle displayed. Check for overspray on the head, wiring and accessories and assess the quality of the work. Look for chipped paintwork and paint in poor condition on engine and accessories. Points should be deducted for butchered nuts and screw heads and for missing washers.
a) Firewall and components thereon
b) Battery, horn, wiring other than ignition
c) Inner guards. brake lines, visible chassis
d) Radiator, hoses, under bonnet
e) Fuel, water, oil and brake fluid leaks
Check the paintwork on the engine bay is the same as on the outside of the vehicle. Check for faded, dirty or peeling paintwork. Look for acid on the battery surrounds. Test the positioning of the battery and how it has been secured. Check to see if wiring is taped or cloth-bound and its condition. Check for uniformity, position and neatness. Check that the wires follow the original route and are clipped in position. Check that the connectors are connected properly. Look at the battery connections, earth straps and clamps on the battery. Check all leads to the coil and starter. Check the junction and fuse boxes for burnt out or p etched up fuses. Underneath the bonnet should be carefully inspected. Look for oil leaks from the dipstick, head, oil filter, shock absorbers, sump, etc. Look for fuel leaks from around carby and fuel lines. Water leaks around engine and radiator hoses should be checked.
b)Absence of rust or rot
Check by standing to the side and well back from the car and at different angles. Look along the wings. door bottoms wheel arches, etc., for ripples which indicate filler presence or crash damage. Although usually apparent a close inspection should be made of the doors and guards where rust with large blisters may be evident. Check for rust down the guards where dirt and water lodge. Look for rust around windows, particularly the rear window and at the bottom of the boot lid. Shut the boot and bonnet as, when they are open, faults are not always obvious. Fit: Look carefully at the gaps around the doors, bonnet and boot. Ideally the gap should be even all the way around. Doors should close effortlessly without slamming. Examine door catches for wear and cleanliness and the door hinges for mounting. An ill- fitting door will be obvious from corresponding scratches on the front guard. When the door is shut, it ought to stay firmly shut and not move when you pull on the handle. Mudguards should be separated by the piping strip, not silicone.
a)Cleanliness, lustre of paintwork
b)Imperfections - cracks, chips, peeling, depth and match of colour, orange peel effect, runs, sags, scratches, fading, overspray.
Good lustre can be defined as a mirror finish - when your reflection can be easily seen in the paintwork. Check the paint has depth, continuity of depth and colour. Without scratching or damaging the vehicle does the paintwork feel good. Overspray is usually evident on windows, rubbers and hinges eg. If a door has been repaired, there may be evidence of overspray on an adjacent panel. orange peels a surface defect resulting in a finish that looks and feels like the skin of an orange. Stone chips, chips and scratches may be caused by ill-fitting doors, fading colour due to age. Polish applied too heavily or lack of polishing. Runs, sags caused by too liberal spraying of paint or bad spraying technique.
Exterior Chromework and Lights
b)Bars, overriders, gravel tray
c)Body moulds, doer handles, window frames and surrounds, head and tail lights, badges and hinges.
Check the grille and surround for condition and cleanliness. Assess the condition of chromework on the bonnet, boot hinges. boot badges, bumper bars, door handles aerials. grille, mirrors, headlights, blinker and doer surrounds. Look for pitting, dullness and peeling chrome. To gain full points chrome should be as clean and sparkling as possible. Attention to detail is important. Carefully inspect badges, mascot, etc., for dirt in corners and crevices. Look for absolute cleanliness in door hinges and door striker plates. For sedans, tourers, etc., in "original", "Restored" and "Maintained" sections, trafficators should be operational. Check for broken lenses and headlights and seated beams for broken globes. Although most entrants take a great deal of effort in presenting their vehicles, some don't bother. Mark accordingly
Boot, Spare Tyre and Tools
Cleanliness stands out. often the entrant has forgotten to clean the boot. Make sure there is a spare wheel and check its condition. Examine the paintwork, especially the inside of the boot lid. Check carefully for any signs of dirt of rust. Is a suitable tool kit displayed? This is the most important in the "original", "Restored" and "Maintained" sections. Absence of handbook/service book should lose points.
Wheels and Tyres
Wheels should be free of rust and dents (which indicate that the driver is a kerb jumper). Paintwork or chromework should be of good quality, shiny and clean. Tyres should be ROADWORTHY and of the same quality and tread. To achieve top marks all tyres, including the spare, should be the same brand also. If radials are fitted they should be fitted all round. Look for peeling retreads, remoulds and splits.
on tyres with raised lettering check that all letters are intact. Check condition and cleanliness of inside surfaces of wheels and tyres. Check condition of caps (are they all in the same relative position?)
Underside - Chassis / Subframe and Floor
Judging this section is a back-breaking exercise and can also be a wet one. Check for rust where the front suspension mounts to the chassis, then the rear spring hangers, under the seats, under the sills on the inner guard and the rear wheel arches where it is hard to clean. on utes and vans, often the rear wheel arches have been bogged and you can generally feel for this by running your hand under the arches (watch for sharp edges). When checking the chassis look to see how straight the chassis rails are and check for bodgie repairs in this area. If a chassis has been repaired often there are spacers in the subframe to enable the sheen to run true.
Wiring, Brake Liners, Handbrake Cables, Exhaust and operation of Footbrake and Handbrake
Check for cracks and leaks in brake lines. Check the fit of the handbrake (which must be present). Look for frayed ends to handbrake cables, the mounts of the different braking systems, etc. examine the exhaust for hoses, bandages, leaks, improper fit or lack of supports. An exhaust system in mild steel should be clean and it is good practice if it is sprayed with a high temperature paint. Check the chrome tip for rust on the ends. Check brake pedal for excessive movement and operation of the handbrake.
Underguards and Suspension
Frequently entrants will forget the underside. However if an effort has been made to remove mud. etc., and a fresh coat of paint has been applied, this should be judged accordingly. originally the paint used on the underside of Morris Minors was the same colour as the top and particular attention to this detail is necessary in the "original;", "Restored" and "Maintained" sections. Check the suspension rubbers and shackles and the suspension mounting for wear. Check for excessive grease in and around the suspension which is undesirable.
Transmission, Gearbox, Differential, Tail Shaft oil Leaks
Usually oil leaks can be observed around the seals of the differential and the bung holes. Sometimes there are leaks from the tail shaft. Gearbox oil leaks often appear around the rear oil seal and filling/drain plugs. Brake fluid can be found dripping from the chassis where the master cylinder is mounted. Check around the sump and gearbox and around the oil filter.
Windows, mirrors, instrument glasses, interior light lenses and any other glass must be spotless. Don't forget the window channelling, as this often lets a car down.
Seats, Seat Belts, Door Trims, Pedal Rubbers and Rubbers
Should be free of dust and dirt, clean smelling and a fresh appearance.
Look for tears in the seats and door linings. All seat covers should be removed. Check for evenness of colour in the vinyl and, if it has been repaired, how well it has been done. Check the tension and mountings of seats and fittings of the door linings. Look at the seat runners for diet, scratches and even looseness. If seat belts have been fitted, check them for fraying and ensure the anchorage points are secure. Check that door seals are not ripped, chafed or perished and that any woven cloth edging is not frayed. Check pedal rubbers and the amount of grip they have. All rubbers look best when finished with a product like Armoral or similar.
Instruments, Dash, Steering Wheel and Underdash
The steering wheel should be free of cracks and the chrome work good. Check steering column for fit. Examine switched for fade, cracks and non-uniformity. Check the speedo's numerals for visibility and glasswork for cleanliness and lack of scratches. If additional instruments have been installed, check them for visibility and security of mounting. Look under the dash for the fit and safety of the wiring. Examine glove boxes linings should be spotless.
Examine interior doer handles, window winders, instrument surrounds, ash ;ray (must be empty and clean), door pull strap anchorages and any other interior chromework. Examine handbrake and gear lever for condition.
Paintwork, Carpets, Headlining, Sunvisors, etc
Check the paintwork for scratches, chips and cracks. Is the colour identical to that of the outside of the vehicle? Look for fade and blemishes. Carpet or vinyl should be examined for wear, tears, and general cleanliness. Check the technique for joining and ensure carpet / vinyl around the gear lever and under dash is neatly finished. Don't hesitate to lift carpet / vinyl in search for dirt and inspect floor pan for dampness and rust. Check condition of rubber heel mats.
Head lining should be free of tears and stains. Make sure the head lining has not come away from the rear window. There should be no excuse for dirty plastic head linings because 'hey wash easily. Look behind the sunvisors for detailed cleaning.
AUSTRALIAN NATIONAL RALLY